This is a compilation of QUILTNET postings about purchasing sewing machines.
All comments are the OPINIONS of the person who posted the
Purchasing A Sewing Machine FAQ
When looking at machines for purchase, it is important to sew on the
machine yourself, in fact, you should insist on it. You should plan ahead,
and when you go to the sewing machine store, know the kind of things you
are interested in doing. Take pieces of fabric, or whatever you plan to
sew on. Do not let the sales rep do the sewing on your fabrics.
1) Explain to the sales rep what you are interested in, what the problems
are with your current machine (if any?).
2) If the sales rep immediately
takes to the most expensive machine in the store and this was not your
intent, be firm and insist upon seeing a machine more in your price range.
You may well end purchasing a machine that is outside your price range,
but that should be your decision and not that of the sales rep.
3) Let the
sales rep give you a demonstration, make sure that when you sit down you
can see what the sales rep is doing. Sometimes the sales reps have a
canned demonstration and they go to fast, they make it flashy and
impressive, but the demo may be more technique rather than what the
machine is capable of doing.
4) Ask your questions and then ask to sew on
the machine yourself. If you do not have fabric pieces, ask to test sew
on real fabric, not the stiff demo cloth that most sales reps use. Your
own swatches are better because, you can carry the same fabric around to
the different shops, and truly have an accurate comparison.
5) If you try
something on a fabric (your own) and it does not work properly, for
example using a machine with a lot of embroidery stitches, you generally
have to stiffen the fabric, use a tear-away type of product. Decorative
stitches generally look nicer using 100% cotton thread and not necessarily
as nice using cotton-wrapped thread. Check out the thread.
6) Contrary to
what a sales rep may say, swear to, etc. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A
MACHINE THAT HAS AN AUTOMATIC TENSION ADJUSTMENT. Remember, when using a
regular sewing machine (as opposed to a serger) there is thread on top of
the seam (your top thread - when threaded goes through tension system of
some kind) and the bobbin thread. In machines with a bobbin case, the
tension is still adjusted by adjusting that little bitty screw on the side
of the bobbin, there is no one, etc. that jumps out and automatically
adjusts this little screw. You must. The machines without a bobbin case
(so-called drop-in bobbins), also have a tension adjusting device. There
may be some "automatic" mechanism to adjust the top tension.
stitching quality of a particular machine depends on a number of things
(a) the machine, (b) needles, (c) thread, (d) tension, (e) sewing
technique, and (f) the operator. All of these items are important. A
good machine is wonderful and can make sewing more pleasurable. You can
hear it and see the results, between a good machine and not so good
8) If you are looking at the high end machine, for example Elna
or Pfaff (there are the two machines I own, so biased), be aware that both
companies have a line of machines that are of a different quality than
there top line. Top line of Elna is made in Switzerland, top line of
Pfaff is Germany. The other line is either made in Japan or China (not
that these are necessarily bad, but they are not the top of the line, the
line that gives the brand its reputation). For example, New Home is a
Japanese built machine, they may have other lines that are built in either
Taiwan or Korea. When it comes to sergers by these companies, it is most
likely their sergers are made in either Japan or Germany/Switzerland, but
for sergers, this is okay. The original home-use sergers came from Japan,
they had the original technology.
I just wanted to add a few notes to the great suggestions that Carolyn gave
about test driving a sewing machine. You may be able to get a used machine
in very good condition. There are some users who trade-in machines because
they don't have all the latest fancy gadgets, etc. Most shops will make
sure that the used machines are in tip-top shape for selling. Make a list
of your requirements and your questions before going to a store, so that you
won't get caught up in the heat of the moment and buy something that does
way more than you need it to or forget to ask something that could turn out
to be important. Be sure that the store will service the machine as well as
sell it. Consumer Reports recommends not purchasing an extended warranty
from the store - they say it's one of the biggest wastes of $. Many major
credit cards offer an extended warranty on purchases made with them. And
finally, don't be afraid to ask what may seem to the salesperson to be a
silly question. A sewing machine is a major investment and you have a right
to have every t crossed and every i dotted before you lay out $$.
Here's a few additions/suggestions I'd like to make:
1. it doesn't matter how much you pay for the machine (back to this is a
bit...): you have to feel comfortable using it. If you think you have to
fight with the machine, your sewing will suffer (and dwindle)
2. I matters a lot how much you pay! You tend to get what you pay for (more
so for a sewing machine than for a car, IMO). Don't feel you have to buy
the top of the line. Of course that top machine is a dream (better be for
around 3000$!). It's also an addition on the house... You can get very
good machines starting at 300-400$. Going the cheapest way may not be the
3. Try contacting prospective dealerships ahead and find out what their
'quieter' times are during the week. By visiting them at 'slow' periods,
you have a better chance of getting them to spend time with you.
4. In addition to bringing your own fabric (recommended pre-washed, ready
to sew, just like the real thing), try to get some 'play' time with the
machine(s). My dealer let me play for as long as I wanted. I got to figure
out how to use the machine, which afforded me a chance to evaluate how easy
it was to use in general.
5. Test drive on some real applications: buttonholes (that's a real test!),
thick layers, thin or sheer fabrics, vinyl, 1/4 in piecing, you name it.
6. for 4 and 5, bring your own thread. You'd be surprised how many dealers
only have 'rayon embroidery' to thread their machines with, because that's
what they use to demo the embroidery stitches (catchy marketing), because
that's what they like to show off (selling a reliable buttonhole is not
exactly 'sexy'). Don't let the dealer tell you thta the machine really
stitches well, it's the flimsy thread that's failing it... This will give
you a chance to test drive bobbin winding, insertion/removal in addition to
This seems like a lot to go through to by a machine. But I can's blow 1500$
without convincing myself it's on an educated guess at least... And if you
enjoy sewing, then it's all play...
From : Bakul
I found the best method to buy a new machine is go to the store and try it
out. I have always found the salespeople eager to show how the machine
works. In fact, a sales person just spent over an hour yesterday showing
me machines. I ended up buying a New Home 8000. I wouldn't suggest any
of the electronic machines by Singer as they like to be repaired alot.
However, their basic machines are alright. I don't know of where to buy
used in your area but suggest looking in the phone book as many places
will take used machines in trade, re-condition them and then re-sell them.
I wouldn't suggest mail order as you don't have easy access to service.
When I bought my electronic machine, I also checked out several.
--and I finally figured it out--all of these computerized machines can do the
SAME THINGS. They ALL have preset stitch length and width that you
can override. They ALL let you stop with the needle up or down. They
ALL can automatically set tension for different fabrics. These similarities
are not so obvious when you are shopping, since you don't know the machines
that well, but they are there. Test it out--write down a list of the
stuff that the first machine does, and ask the various salespeople
if their machine does it too.
Moral: all these machines are Good Machines. They all do what they say they
will. None of them are lemons. Some cost a lot more, and you may decide
that having a great dealer is worth the extra money (I have only been back
to my dealer once, to get an extra presser foot, so it wouldn't be worth it
for me). Free classes may be worth it--altho they ain't free if you pay more
for the machine!
So now I have boiled down "shopping for a machine" to three rules:
1. Don't buy a sewing machine in a department store (like Sears)
2. Don't buy a sewing machine that is "on sale" for a limited time and you
have to make a decision right away. (they don't want you to shop around).
3. If you can't afford a good new machine, don't buy a cheap new machine--
at least try to find a good USED machine. (I haven't done this yet but
one used Pfaff is worth ten new Kenmores any day :-)
IMHO and YMMV, as usual.
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